In March last year, when we drove on road 890, we couldn’t turn left to Høyholmen, for the track was blocked by snow. This time, I could drive along this 3-km long jetty… slowly, though, because of all the holes and waves on the track. It left me some time to admire the landscape.
Located at the mouth of the Tana (or Teno) river, in its delta, and surrounded by abrupt peaks, this peninsula seems to lead you to a small isolated village… until you realize that to reach it, you have to cross by boat! The small vessels were stranded ashore, on the beach, a vision akin to those one can have in Brittany. The weather was similar too, with a cold wind and a near-constant drizzle.
The scenery was spectacular, and in all directions there was something to see: here, a mud expanse sheltering waders on their way north, there, the ruin of a ship or a group of Common eiders (Somateria mollissima). Clouds added an interesting texture to the sky, a treat to the photographer brave enough to endure these harsh conditions.
Eurasian oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus) oversaw their territory in loud patrols, keeping an eye on the bipedal visitors while foraging on the strand.
On the way back, I noticed Arctic skuas (Stercorarius parasiticus) swooping around, chasing gulls in an attempt to establish their own kingdom in the meadow. Powerful and intelligent birds, they let me come close enough for a few shots, before taking off. There I realized I would have to make choices during this trip: wildlife photography takes time, even if the birds are tame… but the road awaited, and at the end of it, wonders to see before hitting it again the day after, in a neverending quest for more. When to continue, when to say stop? A vast question.
I left those impressive animals to their territory, and heeded the call of the Arctic Ocean.
To be continued…
Previously in this series:
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Gosh, it’s wild and remote and you got there by car! Samuel, you’re putting places on the map for me. Part of the Varanger peninsula, the landscape photos are terrific. I enjoyed the ‘vitual’ visit very much.
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Given the weather, it’s better to have a car than to hitch-hike! More seriously, infrastructures are excellent up there, roads or tracks lead you directly into the wild.
I believe there are more picturesque places in Norway than Varanger, but the birding is top-notch there 😉
Stay tuned for the next article on Thursday, you’ll like it!
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Have experienced a taste of traveling via Hurtigruten from Honnesvag to Kirkenes, but Samuel I think you set the bar for intrepid adventurers 🙂 I’m encouraging my nephews (in their twenties) to follow your blog and be inspired. Mind you after reading your accounts of travel in that Finnmark region I’m up for trying Airbnb and self drive excursions. Varanger is on the bucket list for sure! Your blog posts are a great for the mix of information – from natural history, environment to the practicalities of travel.
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I’m very happy to share my adventures, Liz, and I loved to hear that you recommended my blog to your nephews ❤
Please ask if you have any question about how I travel, I'll do my best to answer those. It might not be for everyone, but I do it my way and I love it 😉
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Wahoo, that landscape, just above your “Common eider” pix!
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Spectacular, eh? 😉
By the way, thank you for your many comments, it’s always a pleasure to read you 🙂
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These landscapes are breathtakingly beautiful.
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I definitely agree *-*
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